The Dragon-Gould Loop
I love traversing Sierra ridges, and I particularly love creating loops, so a Dragon Peak-Mount Gould linkup sounded particularly appealing, with one caveat: some parties rate these peaks' summit blocks Class 4.
Extension and/or outright abuse of the Class 3 ("hands required") Y.D.S. climbing rating is definitely a thing in the Eastern Sierra, thanks in part to the old-school first ascensionists, who were literally tough as nails and basically rated everything below vertical wall climbing as Class 3.
Over time I've come to think a saner version of the Y.D.S. would put all levels of rock climbing into the Class 3 rating provided they're not fatally exposed. That is, Class 3 would encompass everything from easy scrambling to fiendishly difficult bouldering problems, with non-trivial climbing noted as a bouldering extension to the rating.
This would be a good, clean, objective definition that makes sense: you'd know exactly what to expect at the base of a Class 3 route, and class 5 would logically just be Class 3 + fatal exposure, broken down into the usual weird decimal extensions.
So...in that hypothetical revision, what's Class 4?
In either system, I tend to think of Class 4 as the point where I get shut down if I'm soloing. I'm not doing that is my guide for when my enjoyable Class 3 scramble abruptly jumps a grade. Or maybe, alternately, Class 4 is when the hike gets spoiled because I feel I have to turn back.
But what if I don't turn back?
Maybe Class 4 is that exact moment where I start feeling guilty thinking about how I'm going to explain to my wife what I was doing. Let's be honest: Class 4 is utterly incoherent as a difficulty rating, so why not use a shame scale instead?
Or how about this: Class 4 climbing happens where skilled climbers are able to free solo fatally-exposed terrain without feeling like they're putting themselves at undue risk.
I like that definition.
Though it also happens to involve the greatest amount of rationalization, so buyer beware.
In any case, now that we've got our priors established, let's talk about Dragon Peak: I think there's a good chance this one shuts down most casual Sierra scramblers.
Things were challenging from the moment I gained Dragon's south ridge, and Dragon's summit crux-traverse struck me as clearly beyond the bounds of any sane and/or fair Class 3 definition.
But...
I did make the moves without feeling like I was doing something I ought to be ashamed of...so it fits nicely in my proposed Class 4 designation. Your results may vary.
Gould added its own little wrinkle, with a very short but spicy summit block section that was trickier but also much less in-your-face, compared to Dragon. Both peaks are stellar targets for ambitious Sierra scramblers, unique and worthy each in their own way.
I finished things off by descending Gould's very loose and sandy south ridge to Kearsarge Pass, for a well-earned safe and straightforward descent on-trail back to the car. Enjoy!
— October 11, 2024
Andy Lewicky is the author and creator of SierraDescents
Walter Kibler October 13, 2024 at 12:22 pm
That shot at around 5 minutes is honestly one of the most insanely beautiful scenes I have ever seen in the Sierra. Absolutely stunning.
Joseph Gregory October 14, 2024 at 9:27 am
Looks like a fantastic day!